The Frozen Lake Series: Heather, Serene, and Lake Twenty-Two

Heather Lake

The first time I tried to reach Heather Lake this winter, my best friend Lauren and I waded through powder up to our waist for several
hours before we were eventually forced to turn around.  The trees sagged from the snow weighing down on their branches, in some
cases bending over so far their tops nearly touched the ground.  We tried to avoid the enormous piles of snow as they sloughed off the drooping branches, and as we inched our way up the trail, we heard the occasional crack as a tree lost its battle with gravity entirely and fell to the forest floor.  That the route to the lake was obscured by the deep powder didn’t help, and we searched for any clues that might indicate we were following the correct path.  Although we did somehow manage to keep our bearing, breaking trail meant moving at a snail’s pace and we soon realized we would never reach the lake in time.  So we sat down in the snow, cracked open a can of beer, and laughed at the ridiculousness of our efforts.  Sometimes, you just have to know when to quit.   Still, no day spent outdoors is wasted, and we enjoyed the adventure despite having failed to reach our destination.

I was still determined to make it to the lake, however, so a few weeks later my sister and I headed back out to the Mountain Loop Highway  for a second attempt.  This time, the trail was packed down nicely from the many other hikers who’d made the trek over the preceding days, and aside from a few near slips on the icy trail towards the top, we
had absolutely no trouble following the route to the lake.  We sat alongside a large boulder along the shore of the lake, which sheltered us from the sporadic gusts of wind that came blowing across its icy surface.  I was glad I’d decided to pack my camping stove, and we enjoyed a steaming cup of hot chocolate as we watched the dogs race each other at full speed from one end of the lake to the other.  Running gracefully across that frozen expanse, our Alaskan Malamute mix, Rupal, looked just like I imagine her ancestors must have as they roamed the great northern landscape.

Lake Serene

Although Lake Serene is stunning at any time of year, it really is a perfect winter destination.  The trail is challenging but not too treacherous in snowy conditions, and the views are absolutely spectacular.  In addition to the rugged mountain terrain that surrounds the expansive lake, the trail passes by one of the most beautiful cascading waterfalls only a mile or so from the trailhead.  The day the pack and I chose for this hike was surprisingly warm, and like many days the Pacific Northwest has experienced this winter, it felt just like spring.  As soon as we reached the waterfall, aptly named Bridal Veil Falls, Nathan sat back against a large boulder and relaxed while I pulled out my tripod took several long-exposure photographs of the cascading stream of water as it fell delicately down the layered rock face.

As we continued up the steep trail to the lake, we noticed there was significantly less snow on the ground than either of us had ever observed at this time of year, and we were grateful we’d decided to leave our snowshoes in the car.  When we finally reached the lake, we sat for a long while and just listened to the silence that pervaded the scene before us.  The sun was beginning to set, and the sky turned a pale shade of pink as we soaked in the raw mountain beauty.

After a while, the dogs became restless and—despite my repeated protestations—began venturing out across the frozen water.  Nuptse especially is very clever, and would sneak along the shoreline out of our view before suddenly tearing out into the middle of the lake.  The ice held his weight, thankfully, but I am not looking forward to the day where one of us has to attempt crawl out across the fragile ice and attempt to rescue our fearless pup .

Lake 22

Our final frozen lake adventure this winter was Lake Twenty-Two, a classic summer destination that I have for some reason never hiked until now.  The trail is short and easy, and we reached the lake within an hour or so after leaving the trailhead.  I could see immediately why so many Washingtonians love this hike.  Despite the ease of the trail, hikers are rewarded with remarkable views usually reserved for those willing to make extended treks into the mountains.  The towering wall of rock rises high above the far side of the lake, and avalanches regularly come crashing down its steep face.  We sat and ate our lunch as the last rays of sunlight disappeared over the jagged cliffs, taking the last bit of warmth with it.